HOW TO SPEND THE PERFECT 48 HOURS IN FREIBURG

Nestled at the foot of the wooded slopes and vineyards of the Black Forest, Freiburg—literally “free city”—was founded in the 12th century and enjoyed numerous privileges granted by the dukes of the region, hence its name. Later, under Habsburg rule, it regained its splendour thanks to its university, which made it a renowned centre for research and teaching.

Today, it is the sunniest city in Germany, a true haven where it is pleasant to stroll. With its cobbled streets lined with half-timbered houses, colorful gabled facades, lively cafes, and majestic cathedral, Freiburg charmed me with its medieval atmosphere and gentle Mediterranean lifestyle.

A pioneer in ecology, the city exudes green living: a pedestrian center, many bike paths, and a sincere commitment to a sustainable lifestyle. An ideal starting point for exploring the Black Forest, Freiburg is also a great weekend getaway—an immersion in authentic Germany that will change the way you see the country.

I went to Freiburg twice and I’m happy to share, in this guide, the must-see attractions and best things to do for 48 hours in Freiburg am Breisgau.

GETTING TO FREIBURG

By plane: the closest airport, EuroAirport, shares its terminals between three European cities: Basel (Switzerland), Mulhouse (France), and Freiburg (Germany). It is 71 km south from there, and you can use the airport bus to get there (an hour ride).

By train: frequent departures from Freiburg Hauptbahnhof to Basel (you can use the Deutschlandticket), Stuttgart, or Munich.

By bus: domestic and international buses connect to Freiburg bus station, located next to the train station.

GETTING AROUND FREIBURG

The city is served by a good tram network that connects all the major attractions in the city center. There are also buses and numerous bike paths that allow you to discover the city in a different way.

WHAT TO SEE & DO IN FREIBURG-AM-BREISGAU

Day One : Freiburger Münster, Augustinermuseum, Altes Rathaus

Start at Schwabentor gate, an ancient defensive structure from the 13th century onwards and displays a mural of St. George, patron saint of the city, slaying the dragon

Fribourg’s streets are dotted with charming cafés where you can stop for breakfast. My favorite place is Origin Coffee Stories, which has super friendly staff and a lovely outdoor terrace where you can enjoy sunny days.

The head to the Freiburger Münster. With its finely carved spires, expressive gargoyles and richly decorated portal, Freiburg Cathedral has watched over the market square (Münsterplatz) for nearly a thousand years and embodies all the beauty of German Gothic architecture. Its main tower, topped by a 116-meter-high stone spire, is considered one of the most graceful in Europe. Inside, light streams through sumptuous stained-glass windows, once financed by medieval guilds. Your gaze is then drawn to the high altar, adorned with a triptych painted by Hans Baldung Grien, a pupil of Albrecht Dürer.

As you may have noticed, Münsterplatz is very lively during the day (except Sundays). It is the commercial heart of the city, where merchants have been setting up shop for centuries in the shadow of the imposing cathedral to sell local products: fruit, vegetables, flowers, cheese, bread, and Black Forest specialties. This is where you can try Freiburg sausages : the Lange Rote, a long grilled sausage served in bread.

Be sure to see the Kaufhaus, a former market hall from the early 16th century, with its red brick arcades and facade decorated with statues of German emperors.

In the afternoon, dip into the past at the Augustinermuseum, which displays major masterpieces from various periods, ranging from the Middle Ages to the 19th century, housed in a modernized monastery.

Then join locals relaxing in a cafe by the fountain in Rathausplatz, Freiburg’s prettiest square. The prettiest building, the Altes Rathaus (old town hall), houses the tourist office where you can pick up some information (and they also sell souvenirs and specialties from the region).

As you wander around, you might see people of all ages cooling their feet in the gurgling Bächle, streamlets once used to water livestock and extinguish fires. Today they provide welcome relief for hot feet on warm summer days. Some shop fronts have even decorated these streamlets to give them an original look.

On the early evening, head to one of the many bars where locals, students, and tourists gather. For a beautiful view over the red roofs of the city as they take on the colors of the setting sun, try SKAJO, which is very busy but quite pleasant with live music. For a high-end experience in a subdued setting, head to Hemingway Bar, one of the best cocktail bars in Germany.

Day Two : Schlossberg, Konviktstraße, Klein Venedig

Start the day with a coffee in one of the many coffee shops in the historic center, then climb up to the Schlossberg viewpoint. This belvedere offers a superb panorama of Freiburg: the red roofs of the old town, the green hills of the Black Forest and, on a clear day, the blue silhouettes of the Vosges mountains on the other side of the French border.

The climb is pleasant: take the path that starts opposite the Schwabentor gate, winding through a forest bathed in light, or opt for the Schlossbergbahn funicular. This site is also the starting point for many hikes to the surrounding villages, perfect for a day trip.

For lunch, there are two great options: Greiffenegg Schlössle – A restaurant perched on the hill, with breathtaking views of the city and the region. Here you can enjoy traditional Baden cuisine prepared with passion, and in summer, its beer garden is one of the most popular in Freiburg. Or the Markthalle, a renovated former market hall where you’ll find a variety of food stalls. Here you can sample regional specialties, such as excellent flammekueche, accompanied by a local beer.

As you return to the city center, you may notice small motifs embedded in the cobblestone streets of Freiburg—in the shape of pretzels, fish, or other symbols. These decorations date back to the Middle Ages and were once used as signs to indicate the type of business, so that even passersby who could not read could find their way around. For example, a pretzel marked the presence of a bakery, while a fish indicated a fishmonger’s.

Continue your afternoon stroll in the bucolic Konviktstraße district, known for its antique dealers, booksellers, artisans, and pretty shops with colorful facades. Then head to Klein Venedig (“Little Venice”), a picturesque neighborhood crisscrossed by canals. Opposite Café Krokodil (which serves excellent espresso), spot the animal of the same name in the canal.

For your last evening in Freiburg, settle into a Weinstube (wine tavern) and indulge in the wines of Baden-Württemberg, particularly Spätburgunder, the region’s iconic Pinot Noir.

I recommend Weber’s Weinstube, renowned for its refined Baden tapas, such as beef marinated in horseradish or potato salad with truffle oil. Another great address is Hawara, a Michelin-starred restaurant where the cuisine is both creative and responsible. The chef offers a seasonal menu that showcases regional produce. Signature dishes include smoked catfish served with organic potatoes and physalis, and a reimagined Belle-Hélène pear dessert served with roasted potato skin ice cream.