A WEEKEND GUIDE TO TOULOUSE, THE PINK CITY

Toulouse is, I believe, France’s most overlooked big city — by far. And yet, it’s one of the liveliest provincial cities in the country. Known as “La Ville Rose” (the Pink City) for the pink bricks that adorn many of its buildings, Toulouse, capital of Occitanie region, offers a delightful mix of bustling markets, a world-famous rugby team, a historic Old Quarter filled with stunning hôtels particuliers, and a strong aerospace heritage.

It’s a city truly worth discovering, at least for a weekend. Much of the city is pedestrian-friendly, making it incredibly enjoyable to wander through its streets and admire the beautiful architecture.

So let’s dive into the guide for a perfect weekend in Toulouse 

SATURDAY | See the highlights of Toulouse

Start at Place du Capitole. This iconic square is home to the Théâtre du Capitole, one of France’s most prestigious opera (I highly recommend seeing a ballet or an opera there). It’s also where locals gather, by rain or shine, to enjoy a coffee or a drink at one of the many terrace cafés lining the square.

From here, head south into the Vieux Quartier (Old Quarter), which will lead you to some of Toulouse’s most famous sights.

Spiritual heritage of Toulouse : Basilique & Covent

One highlight is the Basilique Saint-Sernin, named after Saint Saturnin, the first bishop of Toulouse & a Martyr. Its foundations date back to the 5th century, though the current structure was completed in the 11th century and it’s the largest Romanesque church in France, recognised by the UNESCO & a key stop on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. Inside, you’ll find an impressive nave with a 21-meter-high vault and medieval paintings dating from 1180 — painted over in the 17th century and only rediscovered 50 years ago. Entry is free.

The Basilique Saint Sernin has undoubtely one of the most beautiful inside & outside of Toulouse

Another must-visit religious site is the Couvent des Jacobins, founded in the 13th century by the Dominican order. While its exterior is austere, the interior is bathed in light, and the colorful stained glass casts stunning reflections on the vaulted ceilings. Don’t miss the cloister, a peaceful oasis of greenery and calm in the heart of the bustling city. Admission is €5 (reduced €3), with free entry on the first Sunday of each month.

Toulouse is a gourmet city, with plenty of options to enjoy the flavours of the South-West.For a quick lunch on the go, head to Le Détaillant, known for serving the best sandwiches in Toulouse with French and Iberian inspirations. Try the classic jambon-beurre with cornichons, made with local ingredients, or go for a more indulgent option like magret de canard séché. For a Franco-Asian twist, check out Mado. Here, you can enjoy seasonal dishes influenced by both Asian and Mediterranean cuisines, perfect for sharing — or not!

Old town & hôtels particuliers

In the afternoon, wander through the streets of Toulouse to discover its hôtels particuliers. The city boasts over 50 of these grand private mansions built during the 16th and 17th centuries. Among the finest is the Hôtel d’Assézat, home to the Fondation Bemberg, which houses an impressive art collection. You can also explore the courtyard for free to get a glimpse of the building’s opulence. As well, spot the Hôtel de Bernuy, once the residence of a wealthy Spanish merchant who made his fortune trading pastel (a plant used to produce blue pigment). Today, the mansion serves as a school, but its architectural splendor is still remarkable.

Rugby passion at the Stadium

In the evening, if you’re visiting Toulouse on a weekend and want to experience the city’s vibrant energy, head to Stade Toulousain. The city takes great pride in its rugby team, which has won multiple European Cups over its prestigious history. The season usually starts in September and end at the beginning of June and atmosphere at the stadium is electric & unforgettable.

SUNDAY | Relax & Discover another face of Toulouse

There’s no better way to start a Sunday than with a brunch. Some of my personal favourites in Toulouse include Café FIKA, a charming Swedish-French tea room serving brunch and coffee. Here, you’ll find buttery croissants, cinnamon rolls, and traditional Swedish toasts. For those a bit of sweetness, don’t miss Des Sens Pâtisserie, run by a talented pastry chef offering cakes and pastries packed with bold flavours but never overly sweet.

Art Museums, Gardens & Covered Markets

Art lovers will enjoy a visit to the Musée des Augustins, housed in a former Augustinian monastery with a serene 14^th century cloister. The collection spans from the Roman era through to the early 20th century. Highlights include the French rooms with Delacroix, Ingres, and Courbet, as well as 20th-century works by Toulouse-Lautrec and Monet. Closed until December 2025.

If you’re looking for some greens, Toulouse offers plenty of peaceful green spaces like the Japanese Garden, the Jardin Royal, and the Jardin des Plantes. You can also take a stroll along the Garonne River, or explore the Canal du Midi, along the Canal de Brienne, by walk, bike, or boat.

Sunday is also market day. The most famous one is the Victor Hugo Covered Market, open from 7h to 14h. It offers an endless selection of fresh, local produce. You can grab a quick bite at one of the market’s barrels, but the real charm lies upstairs: restaurants on the first floor showcase the products sold below.

Gazing at the stars : Cité de l’Espace

In the afternoon, head to La Cité de l’Espace. Located on the outskirts of the city (bus 15 will take you there), this museum explores Toulouse’s rich aeronautical history, which began during World War I when the city served as a hub for mail flights. Since then, Toulouse has become the heart of France’s aerospace industry. The museum makes this fascinating world accessible to all, with exhibitions designed for both children and adults, a planetarium, a space shuttle simulator, and an observatory. Don’t miss the chance to admire the Ariane 5 space rocket, towering 53 meters high. Entry fee 29€.

For dinner, treat yourself to a seasonal fine-dining experience at Hortus, a Michelin-starred restaurant. The menu features 5- or 7-course tasting menus inspired by the south of France — from the Basque country, to the Provençal South. The cuisine is sustainable and highlights local, seasonal ingredients, including both well-known and forgotten regional specialties.

The best sunset in Toulouse : Quai de la Daurade

After dinner (or before depending the season), take the opportunity to stroll along the Quai de la Daurade. This is where ‘toulousains’ gather to meet friends, listen to live music, enjoy the last rays of the sun, and watch the sunset behind the city’s iconic landmarks, such as L’Hospice de la Grave.